Are you a stylist? I mean are you licensed? I'm just curious, because you can't get professional hair color with out a license. And the stuff sold at places like Sally's is not pro. I know, I used to work there. Exactly what is the color you are using?? I ask because if you were a professional you would know the answer to this basic question and as a professional I find this very worrisome. None the less I would like to help you get good results from your risky do-it-yourself color.
When you are depositing color, 10 volume developer will always work (assuming you are not dealing with gray-coverage). This is preferable since it does the least amount of damage (the % relates to the amount of hydrogen peroxide in the developer). Oh, depositing means going darker FYI. Just to clarify, color will not lift color so if you were going lighter using color you would have to do it on virgin hair. And it will only lift up to 2 levels that way. A highlift works like you were saying, where you use 30 vol for 3 levels of lift. Bleach is a whole other ball game, so I'll leave that one alone for now.
As far a developer brand, they always recommend staying with the same brand as the color, but it's not necessary. One of my current jobs is at a professional beauty store. So you can believe me when I say that you can use whatever brand developer you want. The only thing to keep in mind is the type of color you are using. If you are using permanent color, then you can pick up any 10 vol developer. BUT if you are using a demi-permanent color you'll want to stick to the developer made specifically for that color line. Demi colors usually use a custom volume developer that is somewhere between 5-10%, but it won't specify on the bottle.
If you have any questions at all, please email me! I have helped many people fix bad colors because they simply didn't know some of the basic concepts with the chemistry of hair color. You are doing one of the easiest types of hair color tho, so I think I it's very likely that it will turn out nicely even if you make a few mistakes.
I can also advice you on even color application if you are interested.
Paige :)How to dye hair darker using professional hair colour?
you want to use a 20 volume of the same brand of developer as you have on the color..
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